Articles about American Pit Bull Terrier
...to start reading this article from the beginning please click on here...The more locations you can repeat this in, the better the dog's recall will be. Start with locations that are familiar to the dog and work up to locations that are more distracting. If you give the SS and the dog ignores it, step on the long line. If the dog is moving fast, try to step on the long line in such a way that you gradually increase the tension on it (or else use a shock absorber). Walk down the long line while trying to pretend you're doing nothing of the sort. As far as your dog is concerned, they've mysteriously become unable to move away. When you get close enough to the dog that you are certain your dog will respond, give the SS, wait until the dog is moving towards you, click and treat. If you can't possibly get close enough to the dog for them to pay attention to you, go back and build attention (see Step Six). You can start leaving out the click (you probably already have!). If you have a clicker on you, you may use it--it's like getting two treats out of every treat. First the dog hears the click, which gives them a little jolt of pleasure, then they actually get the treat, which gives them a little jolt of pleasure. Step Eight: start deliberately setting up distracting situations. One common strong distraction for most dogs is seeing other dogs, particularly other dogs that are playing. The ideal set up is with someone who has two dogs that are good with other dogs and have perfect recalls or drops. That way, if your dog doesn't leave the other dogs, the other handler can call the dogs or have them drop (which almost instantly makes them boring--plus, it's hilarious to watch the trainee's reaction to this "did I say something wrong? Is it my breath?"). Less than ideal but workable is the other dog on a leash or behind a secure fence.
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